MSXmakers support

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By msxmakers

Champion (468)

msxmakers's picture

25-06-2022, 13:20

RayneX wrote:

I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to do something like this in the original acrylic case. I just have to find a spot for that and the up converter. There's just no way else to mount it. My bracket is only useful in certain cases then. Dang it, it works really well too. Just tested its functionality and plugging it in and unplugging it was completely solid.

Sorry, we work on a teamgroup but sometimes we do not try everything.
I have designed some of the acrylic case before they have a floppy inside and I have designed then the mini-dc.
Then Capsule designed the acrylic XL case with floppy drive inside but using just the mini-dc 1.3, and palver designed the 3d cases but considering I'm using SPST switches all time.
Then I've cutted my 3d case because power switch is better in a new place (to me).

all together is not so perfect but it is maker Wink

By RayneX

Resident (43)

RayneX's picture

25-06-2022, 14:57

msxmakers wrote:
RayneX wrote:

I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to do something like this in the original acrylic case. I just have to find a spot for that and the up converter. There's just no way else to mount it. My bracket is only useful in certain cases then. Dang it, it works really well too. Just tested its functionality and plugging it in and unplugging it was completely solid.

Sorry, we work on a teamgroup but sometimes we do not try everything.
I have designed some of the acrylic case before they have a floppy inside and I have designed then the mini-dc.
Then Capsule designed the acrylic XL case with floppy drive inside but using just the mini-dc 1.3, and palver designed the 3d cases but considering I'm using SPST switches all time.
Then I've cutted my 3d case because power switch is better in a new place (to me).

all together is not so perfect but it is maker Wink

I completely understand. It's hard to think of everything with so many hands in the pot, so-to-speak. My friend's idea of making it work sounded good but won't work in reality, so it's just a matter of mounting the board probably on the side of the case somehow and making sure there's clearance for some of the connectors. I'll probably design a mounting board to hold it sideways and just drill some holes into the acrylic to hold it. I appreciate all the help you've offered and hope the conversation here will help others in the future diagnose their builds. It is a fun build and with so many ICs involved, it is hard to gauge what could be the issue. I guess anyone who goes to the trouble of buying everything brand new won't run into many problems, if at all. Trying to be frugal could cause headaches like it did with me. lol. It's still fun at the end of the day.

By RayneX

Resident (43)

RayneX's picture

26-06-2022, 14:52

msxmakers wrote:
RayneX wrote:

I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to do something like this in the original acrylic case. I just have to find a spot for that and the up converter. There's just no way else to mount it. My bracket is only useful in certain cases then. Dang it, it works really well too. Just tested its functionality and plugging it in and unplugging it was completely solid.

Sorry, we work on a teamgroup but sometimes we do not try everything.
I have designed some of the acrylic case before they have a floppy inside and I have designed then the mini-dc.
Then Capsule designed the acrylic XL case with floppy drive inside but using just the mini-dc 1.3, and palver designed the 3d cases but considering I'm using SPST switches all time.
Then I've cutted my 3d case because power switch is better in a new place (to me).

all together is not so perfect but it is maker Wink

Man, I'm just not getting any reprieve in this build. Using the original acrylic case design, what ribbon cable/connector did you use? The common ribbon cable is way too big to fit inside this case. It hits the keyboard pcb on the bottom.

By msxmakers

Champion (468)

msxmakers's picture

26-06-2022, 21:06

RayneX wrote:

Man, I'm just not getting any reprieve in this build. Using the original acrylic case design, what ribbon cable/connector did you use? The common ribbon cable is way too big to fit inside this case. It hits the keyboard pcb on the bottom.

if you have a cable with a second cam you must remove this one.

By msxmakers

Champion (468)

msxmakers's picture

01-07-2022, 09:53

hi,
for anyone who will build the mini-dc pcb, here you are some details
https://msxmakers.design.blog/proyectos/omega-home-computer/...
regards

By RayneX

Resident (43)

RayneX's picture

22-07-2022, 02:23

Got a question. Has anyone tested an Omega on S-Video? Just curious if anyone gets vertical lines or not? Composite is clean and I can't test RGB as I don't have the cable for it. The MSX Logo on boot is clean, but when it enters the Prompt or Plays a game, the vertical lines are there. Would anyone know where to check?

By msxmakers

Champion (468)

msxmakers's picture

22-07-2022, 10:45

RayneX wrote:

Got a question. Has anyone tested an Omega on S-Video? Just curious if anyone gets vertical lines or not? Composite is clean and I can't test RGB as I don't have the cable for it. The MSX Logo on boot is clean, but when it enters the Prompt or Plays a game, the vertical lines are there.

I have used the 3 video outputs of my Omega, always on LED TV with scart imput.
The composite video es poor in NTSC configuration, a little better using PAL.
S-Video is quite better than composite, for some time my wire was wrong and I only saw it on B/W but was a B/N perfect screen, once the colour was added the focus displayed a little worst, but I'm compairing with RGB output.
RGB output is so clear as if it was a PC with VGA (of course low resolution).
build a wire for this is my recomendation, you just need a TV with SCART, a cheap SCART wire and a DIN-8 connector to solder to it.
Is the same RGB connection than TURBO-R and most MSX2+ computers.

RayneX wrote:

Would anyone know where to check?

In my experience, most of the times you can have a wrong wire or a dirty connector, please, check this first with another computer.
Then you can have a socket problem, a bad solder, or a wrong component (in that case a capacitor in trouble).
In the end you can go from outside to inside following the noise with an oscilloscope, to find if problem comes from VDP, only apear after the CXA1645, etc.

By RayneX

Resident (43)

RayneX's picture

22-07-2022, 12:58

msxmakers wrote:
RayneX wrote:

Got a question. Has anyone tested an Omega on S-Video? Just curious if anyone gets vertical lines or not? Composite is clean and I can't test RGB as I don't have the cable for it. The MSX Logo on boot is clean, but when it enters the Prompt or Plays a game, the vertical lines are there.

I have used the 3 video outputs of my Omega, always on LED TV with scart imput.
The composite video es poor in NTSC configuration, a little better using PAL.
S-Video is quite better than composite, for some time my wire was wrong and I only saw it on B/W but was a B/N perfect screen, once the colour was added the focus displayed a little worst, but I'm compairing with RGB output.
RGB output is so clear as if it was a PC with VGA (of course low resolution).
build a wire for this is my recomendation, you just need a TV with SCART, a cheap SCART wire and a DIN-8 connector to solder to it.
Is the same RGB connection than TURBO-R and most MSX2+ computers.

RayneX wrote:

Would anyone know where to check?

In my experience, most of the times you can have a wrong wire or a dirty connector, please, check this first with another computer.
Then you can have a socket problem, a bad solder, or a wrong component (in that case a capacitor in trouble).
In the end you can go from outside to inside following the noise with an oscilloscope, to find if problem comes from VDP, only apear after the CXA1645, etc.

Thank you for the suggestions. A friend looked at the schematics and told me I could use a NEC Tubo Duo adapter to use my HDRV Genesis cable, so I've ordered that for the RGB port. If it works super clean there, then the S-Video port won't matter. I'll follow up when I get the part. Thank you again. I'll post photos of the case and completed system soon.

By RayneX

Resident (43)

RayneX's picture

22-07-2022, 17:45

msxmakers wrote:

Note: 6A because I have connected the Omega's boards, FM and o4Mega extensions, internal floppy drive, amplifier and two speakers, HDMI converter...
For the base equipment I prefered a 3A PS even it should be enough with 1A ones.

Would you be familiar with Capsule5000's O4Mega V2 RAM expansion board? We have the PCBs but for some reason, we can't find the BOM. It's very similar to your V1 board but with extra components. I don't even recall how we got to his V2 board off hand.

By msxmakers

Champion (468)

msxmakers's picture

23-07-2022, 12:06

RayneX wrote:

Would you be familiar with Capsule5000's O4Mega V2 RAM expansion board? We have the PCBs but for some reason, we can't find the BOM. It's very similar to your V1 board but with extra components. I don't even recall how we got to his V2 board off hand.

Hi,
It's the same BOM, only added one resistor and one led that you can avoid.

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